Saturday, February 11, 2017

Why Are My Credit Scores Constantly Changing?

By John Ulzheimer
The Ulzheimer Group 
One of the most common questions I receive has to do with the changing nature of credit scores. One month, one of your scores is, say, 700, and the next month it’s either higher or lower; it’s rarely the same. What is the explanation for this natural ebb and flow?
First things first: let’s dispense with a pesky myth about credit scores. Your credit score isn’t a continuously changing quantity, like temperature or body weight. Your credit score is like a snapshot; it reflects your situation at a given moment in time. As with snapshots, a new score taken weeks, days, or even minutes from now will reflect a different reality – but it doesn’t replace or update the first score; both are accurate reflections of your circumstances at the time they were created.
A credit score is created when it is calculated by one of the three credit reporting companies (CRCs—Equifax, Experian and TransUnion), based on data stored in their respective consumer-credit databases. The only time a CRC calculates your score is when some entity asks for it. Most typically, that entity would be a financial institution, like a bank, or a credit union or credit card issuer to which you have applied for credit or a loan. But landlords and utility companies may also request scores, and you may even request one yourself when you buy a score or check it through a free-score service. Each time someone makes a score request, or inquiry, a new score is calculated using the information in the credit file maintained by the CRC supplying the score. (Some of these inquiries can impact your credit score, but many others, including those you request yourself, cannot.) 
Credit scores are determined by considering a variety of factors from your credit reports, including the presence or absence of derogatory information, your types and amounts of debts, how long you’ve had credit, the variety of information appearing on your credit reports, and how often you apply for credit. These factors represent dozens of different individual metrics, each having some influence on your final three-digit credit score. Continual changes in these factors mean it’s very likely that scores based on each report will differ, at least a small amount, every time they’re calculated. But here’s the catch: because your score isn’t part of your credit reports, you may not even know about changes in your credit score unless you track them over time. 
If you do track your scores over time and discover that they are always different month after month, don’t panic. Your credit scores will migrate up and down as the information in your credit reports change. Every month, your credit report data becomes older, inquiries age further, credit card balances go up or down, and maybe derogatory information disappears or, unfortunately, lands on your credit reports. All of these things will likely cause your credit scores to be different from the last time they were calculated. This difference in credit scores is perceived as “change,” when in reality your scores have simply been recalculated based on slightly different credit report data. 
If you were to compare the information on your credit reports today to the information on your same credit reports 30 days ago, you’ll likely see many subtle differences, principally to the balances of your credit card accounts. These changes result in a different number of points you’ll earn across the many credit scoring metrics, which is why your scores are likely to be slightly different today than they were at the same time last month.

Thursday, December 22, 2016

Monday, October 24, 2016

Did You Know… Delinquent Accounts can Only be Charged-Off ONCE - Not 29 times in a Row....Hmmm



A troubling series of lawsuits has been filed in several states, improperly accusing lenders and the three national credit reporting companies (CRCs—Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) of mishandling the way they report credit card charge-off events on consumer credit reports. 

More specifically, the suits allege—erroneously—that lenders and the CRCs are improperly treating a single charge-off as an event that recurs month after month after month, lowering the consumer’s credit score each time the event appears on the credit file.
To understand the mistaken assumptions behind these unfounded lawsuits, a bit of background is in order, starting with an explanation of what a charge-off is in the first place. A lender performs a charge-off when a consumer has defaulted on a debt, and the lender determines it will never be able to collect that debt. The lender reports the charge-off to the CRCs, who add it to the consumer’s credit files. 
The relevant account in the consumer credit file is then assigned a charged-off status, and that status is applied to each monthly entry for that account, dating back to the month that the account first went delinquent. The date of the original delinquency is known as the anchor date for the charge-off. Charge-offs remain on consumer credit files for seven years from the anchor date.
The process described here represents accurate credit reporting, and complies with standards set forth by the credit reporting industry’s trade association, the Consumer Data Industry Association. One source of confusion surrounding the process may involve the fact that an interval of several months typically passes from the time when an account goes delinquent, to the date when the lender decides to write the account off and report the write-off to the CRCs. If the consumer obtains a credit report during that interval, the account status for the delinquency month, and any intervening months, will be listed as delinquent. Credit reports pulled after the charge-off is final will show the account status for those months as charged-off instead of delinquent. 
The lawsuits allege that reporting the account status as charged-off for multiple months somehow indicates that the account was subjected to a brand new charge-off for each of those months, and that each monthly status triggers a new anchor date, which resets the seven-year clock that determines when the charge-off will be removed from the credit file.
That is categorically not the case. A charge-off is a single event which an account can only be subjected to once. Accounts cannot go into and out of charged-off status and the anchor date does not vary once it is set. Credit scoring systems, including VantageScore models, are designed to recognize the industry-standard methods for reporting charge-offs, and the models do not handle a series of charge-off statuses for a single account as multiple events.
A charge-off in a credit file is a significant negative event. It causes significant reductions in credit scores. Like all negative events in a credit file, its impact on a credit score diminishes over time. When calculating a score using a credit file that contains a charge-off, scoring models use the anchor date to properly age the defaulted account.

Link to Original article: https://thescore.vantagescore.com/article/291/did-you-know-accounts-can-only-be-charged-once

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We are honored to help you repair your credit profile to qualify to purchase a new home for you and your family!


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Sunday, October 16, 2016

Credit Expert Teaching for Longwood University SBDC

It was an honor teaching three classes for Longwood University SBDC. There should be more education about business credit and personal credit in our schools.


For a full transcript of each of the two hour classes, please send an email to me requesting them: robert@creditra.com.

To discuss any credit issues, you can reach me at the office: (804) 823-9601. There is never a charge for good advice.

Robert W Linkonis Sr
President
Credit Restoration Associates
Alliant Business Credit & Funding






The History of FICO

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Tuesday, August 2, 2016

Og Mandino - The Choice

I just ordered this book for all of my leaders. I recommend that you do the same.


This is the offer that I used for the discount. : Credit Restoration Og Mandino. You should be able to get the really good deal, or else click HERE. Give this book to everyone in your organization. 

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The History of FICO

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Monday, July 4, 2016

Trade-level derogatory entries in your credit file, and why to avoid them




Many kinds of entries on a credit report can lower your credit score, but some are much more harmful than others. The entries that do the most damage and that tend to keep your score down for extended periods of time are what lenders call derogatory events—or just plain bad ones. Lenders view derogatory credit-report entries as evidence of mismanaged debt. That is why credit-scoring models typically treat them as grounds for steep, long lasting score reductions. That is also why you should avoid them at all costs.

This four-part series of articles is designed to help you “steer clear” of derogatory events, examining them in detail so you know what to avoid—and what the consequences could be if you don’t. We are covering the three categories of information that can be considered derogatory: The first part examined public records; part two looked at credit report narratives, this installment and part four will look at the somewhat complicated topic of non-performing trade lines—a fancy term used to describe accounts that aren’t being paid as agreed upon. Trade, as used in the credit industry, refers to an account on your credit report. So, a Bank of America credit card on your credit report, would be referred to, formally, as a trade line.

A trade line can contain a variety of negative entries, including current and historical late payments, past-due balances, and indicators of default or other serious delinquency associated with the account. This month we’re going to tackle historical late payments. Just for clarity, a late payment on a credit report isn’t the same as a late payment on an account. I know that doesn’t make any sense, so let me clarify. In order for you to be late on one of your credit accounts, you have to not make a payment on or before the due date. In order for a late payment to show up on your credit reports you have to be a full 30 days past the due date.


So, if a late payment shows up on your credit reports, then you know you went at least 30 days late, not just a few days late. In other words, there’s a more rigorous standard used in credit reporting. For the past several decades the three national credit reporting companies (CRCs—Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) have accepted late-payment reporting by creditors. So, if last year you were late on your credit card account by 30-59 days multiple times, it’s likely a record of those previous late payments will appear on your credit reports, associated with each respective account. And yes, those late payments do have the potential to lower your credit scores.


There are a variety of ways historical late payments are represented visually on credit reports. The most common is for the credit reporting companies to display a payment-history grid for each account, which indicates if you’ve made any late payments, how many days you were late, and when you were late.


Link to original article: HERE 


Next month, we’ll take a deeper look at trade-level credit-report entries, and additional types of records to avoid.


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Friday, March 11, 2016

35 Money Questions You Should Be Able to Answer By 35

By: Stacy Rapacon

By the time you’ve reached your 30s, you’ve probably heard dozens of financial acronyms and terms thrown around—from APRs to IRAs, expense ratios to exchange-traded funds. Yet while the lingo may sound familiar, you might not have a really clear understanding of what the words actually mean or how they apply to your finances. And that can be problematic when you’re trying to make the best decisions with your money.

So we’ve gathered, and answered, 35 questions on a range of financial topics that you’ll want to know by the time you’ve established your career and started building some wealth.

While we’ve started with the basics, we also include more sophisticated terms and topics. Master these, and you can not only sound smart about money, but you’ll be able to make smarter decisions with yours, too.

Basics

1. What’s your net worth?

Your true worth is unquantifiable, my friend. But financially speaking, your net worth equals your assets—cash, property (like your home, car and furniture), your checking and savings account balances and any investments—minus your liabilities, which are your debts and other financial obligations.

To calculate the net worth of your home, for example, you’d take an estimate of its current market value. (You can look at what similar homes in the neighborhood have sold for recently or have a real estate agent make an appraisal.) Next, subtract how much you still owe on your mortgage. If an agent says she could sell your home for about $215,000 and you owe about $110,000 on your mortgage, for example, that’d be about $105,000. The asset value minus your liability (or what you owe on it) equals the net worth.

Why is knowing your total net worth important? It gives you a true financial picture of how you’re doing, and highlights where you could make improvements.

2. What should you include in a budget?

First, add up your essential expenses, such as your mortgage or rent, utility bills, cell phone, food and child care. Then tally your financial obligations, like credit card, auto or student debt payments and savings goals (for emergencies, retirement and anything else you’re working toward).

Then add in “discretionary” expenses, or those that are not absolutely essential but are important to you. Don’t forget to factor in fun—entertainment, weekend trips, whatever you love—because drudging through life with a too-tight spending plan is a recipe for failure.

Saving

1. How much should you save in your emergency fund?
Most experts agree that you should have three to six months’ worth of living expenses saved to keep you afloat in the event of, say, a home or car repair or other unexpected expense—or the loss of your job.

2. Where’s the best place to hold short-term savings?
For money you need to be able to access within the next year or two, advisors usually recommend looking for a high-yield savings account. Just be aware that you can only make up to six withdrawals each month.

Unfortunately, you won’t earn much interest on a savings account, as the national average is currently .06 percent. But some banks—like Ally Bank, Synchrony and Barclays—are offering 1 percent or more as of early March, so it’s worth shopping around. “Internet banks often have the [lowest] fees, better interest rates and can be much more convenient,” says Ken Tumin, co-creator of comparison site DepositAccounts.com.

3. What’s the difference between a money market and a savings account?

Both savings and money market accounts are government-insured. But money market accounts are more likely to offer check-writing capabilities and ATM or debit cards (although they are subject to the same six-withdrawals/month limit). MMAs typically have higher interest rates, but also have higher minimum balance requirements. Details vary by account.

4. Where should you put money you’ll need in two to 10 years?

If you need the money in a year or two, “You might start thinking about CDs if you want to maximize your rates,” Tumin says. One-year CDs aren’t offering much more than high-yield savings accounts now. But some two-year CDs are offering 1.5 percent or more.

If you have a longer timeframe, consider investing in stocks and bonds. Just be aware that, while the stock market has historically gone up over time, it can go up or down in the short run. (And, as advisors will caution, past performance doesn’t guarantee future returns.) So while stocks may provide higher growth opportunities than CDs and bonds, you want to allow enough time to ride the downturns out and may consider moving money into more conservative options as your time horizon gets shorter. Investing in a mix of stocks and bonds can also lower your risk.

5. What’s a CD?

CD stands for certificate of deposit, which you can buy from a bank and is guaranteed to pay interest over a designated period of time—usually much more than a savings account would. A five-year CD from Melrose Credit Union is paying 2.4 percent, for example, while its savings accounts offer rates of just 0.5 percent. The catch is that you can’t touch the money in a CD until the designated time period ends.

“CDs can offer higher rates than savings accounts, but the price you pay is to have less liquidity,” says Tumin. “If you take the money out early, it can cost you several months of interest.”

(This page has been updated to clarify the process for calculating the net worth of an asset.)

Click HERE to keep reading the article.


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